| When
Tamara Dwyer's family settled in the Walla Walla Valley
in the early 1900s, it was best known for growing wheat,
onions, and asparagus. That changed 40 years ago, when
commercial vintners discovered an old-time secret: The
volcanic soils and watersheds of this valley, which stretches
from eastern Washington into Oregon, produce excellent
wines. On a homecoming roadtrip last July, Tamara made
a tour of three wineries and contemplated the importance
of strong roots. |
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Ready
for a family outing in a red Mustang convertible |
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Acres
of grapevines, with the Blue Mountains in the
distance |
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A
gentle stream boasting great fishing, the Walla
Walla River also created an agricultural oasis
in the high desert of southestern Washington state. |
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My family landed in Walla Walla, Washington,
in the early 1900s. Some of my earliest memories are of endless
wheat fields punctuated by small family farms growing onions
and asparagus in the river valley. The farms often had grapevines
growing up one side of the garden fence. The Italian families
made wine, the German families made beer, everyone shared
as they could, and no one paid much heed to Prohibition.
In the 1960s, vintners began cultivating grapes
for the commercial trade; now there are long rows of vines
supplying grapes to more than 100 wineries in the Walla Walla
Valley. The valley gained federal recognition as an American
Viticultural Area in 1984, and the local community college
offers degrees in the vintner's craft. The landscape changed
as people built impressive estates amid the simple farmhouses.
Last July, five of us went on a winery tour to
explore this new development in our hometown. Grandma has
lived in the area all her 80 years; Mom and Dad left after
graduating high school in the '60s. I visit regularly, but
I'd seldom driven south of town except to buy tax-free cigarettes
in Oregon. It was a homecoming, celebration and roadtrip adventure
all rolled into one.
We grabbed a map from the Walla
Walla Valley Chamber of Commerce and piled into two cars:
the parents in a red convertible Mustang, rented for a cool
ride to the high school reunion; I was with the kids in a
white Chevy, rented for a smooth ride and space to share with
Grandma. My taste in wines is not much more refined than my
taste in cars: I look for a smooth ride and plenty to share.
As we drove out of town, then a bit farther south
on Highway 125, the golden wheat fields gave way to fields
of carefully tended vines. The Blue Mountains in the distance
were breathtaking. We crossed the Walla Walla River, then
headed east on State Line Road.
The first winery, Northstar
Winery, was the most beautiful facility we saw that day.
To find it, turn left on Pepper's Bridge Road, then right
on JB George Road. After a half mile, the road comes to a
T. Turn left into a small lane, marked by a sign, and wend
your way through a maze of grapevines until you come to the
huge, gorgeous house with the wonderful view of the mountains
and the valley. The view is as big as the winery's mission,
which is nothing less than to make the best merlot in the
region.
One of Northstar's fruity merlots pleased two
of our crowd; a dry wine pleased two more. Grandma revealed
that all she had learned about wine growing up was that each
Italian family had two barrels: One was the everyday wine,
and the other was the special reserve wine -- the good
wine -- which was shared at baptisms and weddings. This was
all special-occasion wine.
We returned to State Line Road, and then followed
the signs to the next winery, Glen
Fiona. Lured by the promise of a Celtic estate, we turned
left on Braden Road, and left again on Lyday Lane. What we
found was a big, half-furnished house in the middle of the
wheat fields, Celtic music in the background, and cement floors.
Ah, marketing. The wines varied quite a bit. One smelled like
a fireplace to me; Mom, who has a better nose and a more refined
palate, thought of a musty basement. On the other hand, Glen
Fiona's finest cuvée was wonderful, and left us wanting
more. It was here we starting buying our favorite wines to
ship home.
We took State Line Road back to Highway 125,
and then we turned left, to the south, and crossed into Oregon.
Zerba
Cellars was on the right-hand side of the road. We stopped
because Grandma remembered the family's produce- and cut-flower
stand, at the very same location, from her childhood. The
pourer was a native who graduated from Walla Walla High School
a year ahead of my parents. We tried and purchased several
wines, and talked a long time. These wines, and the winery,
have soul. Their 2003 "Wild Thing" was an easy-drinking
blend. Their syrah, crisp and dry with a velvet chocolate
finish, is a real treat. The wines I purchased that day went
on to win several awards, and my investments doubled in value
as fast as I drank them. The 2003 "Wild Thing" is
no longer available, but the 2004 "Wild Z" I sampled
this past spring is equally tasty.
If you travel to Walla Walla from out of state,
plan to ship or carry your purchases home before you buy.
Check the state alcohol board rules in your destination state
and find out if there are any restrictions on how many bottles
you are allowed to take home. If you are traveling by airplane,
you might want to ship the bottles home instead of packing
them into your checked luggage. Currently, the Transportation
Security Administration will not allow passengers to pack
more than 3 ounces of liquids in carry-on baggage; the friendly
staff at the Pak N Ship, located downtown at 123 E. Main St.
in Walla Walla, had the necessary materials and licenses to
ship my purchases to my Texas home safely and legally.
After the generous wine pourings and accompanying
frivolity, we thanked our two designated drivers for staying
sober for the drive home. Three wineries was our limit. If
you have a smaller group, or you do not want to designate
a driver, consider hiring a limousine service for the tour.
My cousin Linda and her husband, Tony Horner, are in this
business; they are Walla Walla natives with extensive knowledge
of the area. Contact Black
Tie Limousines to schedule your tour. They will ensure
everyone travels safely, and that no one misses a drop of
any pour.
My trips to Walla Walla (still small-town charming)
are a relaxing change of pace from my workaday life. The booming
viticulture industry has changed the agricultural landscape
and provides new social opportunities, such as special weekends
celebrating the new vintage year. Grandma often mentions she
looks forward to our next trip home, not only to see us, but
also so that she can accompany us on another roadtrip.
Tamara
Dwyer
08/26/07
